Scents of Time – On Riding

When one talks to folks who are interested but don’t ride motorcycles, it’s hard to communicate how different it is from driving. Very different. 

Lots of folks who don’t ride much have ridden some, usually in their youth before they found a way to come to their better senses. I rode a friend’s mini-bike, and a Honda 90 a couple of times on Kelton Court at 12 or so and it was clear how powerful that adrenaline-thing is. [Credit Ron Songer for the analogy], the throttle provides a rush shot straight into your jugular. BOOM! Exciting doesn’t begin to describe it. But like any drug, it’s clear that this is not a healthy thing to do, especially long term. That is…, riding for the rush. In my 20’s, a crazy friend of a friend brought dirt bikes to Lake Tahoe and we flew off a couple of dirt roads until we flew off. That ended THAT brush with the adrena-rush. It turns out, though, that there is another way to ride, that I didn’t learn or try until about 58. It’s much less dangerous, by developing the skill to ride as if everything you confront might try to kill you. We’ll get to that.

Moving past the “rush phase,” when one rides for awhile, one begins to notice the difference in the experience itself. THAT’S the magic.

Riding free on a beautiful road

The major difference is that when you are driving, even a convertible, you are driving your environment through the world. We drive so much, so automatically, that we miss much of what we are driving through. Our environment has our radio playing our music in our space. We even use that phrase – “when I was driving through Winslow, Arizona….”

Riding a bike leaves you in the world, not driving your space through it. You HAVE to experience it differently, because you are in it. And, to ride responsibly, you have to concentrate on more, see more, identify in advance what could challenge your safety. 

And then there’s the bonus. Every slight temperature change, every change of the scent in the same air you are in, whether it be fresh cut grass, mountain pines, the recent passage of a garbage truck, a bakery…, those change in an instant because you’re in it. Scents and senses assault you — you can’t help but be hyper-aware – it’s all so obvious. 

In it!

It’s a completely different thing, at least for me. The rush is gone…, I don’t want it, because it comes with danger. When I can see for miles on a two lane highway, the pavement is predictable and other vehicles can’t be found, 85 isn’t a rush, it’s a profound investment in traveling inside, and within that place. It’s just too much to simply go through.

There is some zen to it, and there is that magic of the new smell, the cool of a river, the beauty of a butte that I’m somehow more in touch with. It makes the long, lonely highway come alive.

It is much more dangerous than driving a car – no suggestion here that this is the safest way to travel. But, done with care…, I like the word “investment…,” mentally investing in seeing more of what must be calculated against to stay safe, great moments come along for free — are these scents and senses of the world that would otherwise be missed. 

It’s a little like how I feel about a great songwriter. We all can pick up an instrument and bang on it – even become pretty good at it. But to master an instrument AND to be able to write poetry AND pair melody…. These different disciplines collide, morph and become something much greater, literally unimagineable MAGIC to me. So is the well-invested ride through the countryside. It is WAY more than the sum of its parts, it rejects specific definition, it’s simply another kind of magic.

Day 1: A Conservative on the Loneliest Road

The morning offered a cold and cloudy ride. Metaphor? Maybe, but this time, nothing was at stake but a return to the concentration, immersive beauty and solace that a long ride offers. Not having been successful with meditation, McCovey delivers a magical, powerful alternative.

Lynn video’d my departure as I wobbled off. Immediately following the warmth of a heartfelt parting with, expectedly, “I really don’t know why you’re doing this, ya crazy bastard….” 

Ah normality…, all was well!

Risky, this motorcycle tour bidness.

McCovey and I rode conservatively as we’ve not been seriously tested since our first Desert Caballeros horse adventure in Wickenburg almost 3 years ago. And we haven’t been out for more than 3 days since the Dakotas (chronicled here in ‘21.)

On Day 1, we passed our 25,000th mile, at lonely mile marker 99. Or should I say “milestone.”

I was, for once, a conservative in state, as the binary nature of success and failure on a bike in the desert loomed. Throughout the morning, we swooped long twisties at 40, not 55, and lounged on long straights with visibility for miles at a dogged 75, not 90. You’ve heard of “getting your legs under you.?”
Think higher.

We got gas in Fallon and prepared to leave civilization for America’s loneliest road – Highway 50 across Nevada. The clouds were moments in and of themselves.

The loneliest road awaits

The last time I was on this road, Lynn and I had visited Ichthyosaur State Park. Today, the clouds were messin’ with me….

Ichthyosaur, platypus or submarine…, you decide…

All of the glamor that has over-infused south Austin, Texas with ever more Road-AY-Oh Drive, in a karmic parallel universe, may have been sucked from the formerly charming town of Austin, Nevada. The people were insular, friendly, and…, well, haunted. They’re only a couple handful of ghosts short of, well, you know. Not new news for small rural towns, but this one was shocking.

McCovey with his back to Austin, a little embarrassed

As we got higher it got colder. But I was NOT expecting this:

Brrrrr. Added a layer. Such an onion….

Eureka, Nevada presented as thriving. Home of an annual fiddlers festival, the brick Opera House and it’s old hotel have been spiffed and shined. The fiddler thing may be worth a visit!

On the ride, I don’t listen to anything but the bike and the wind. And my own internal, rattle-trap processor as I scout the road ahead. But I like to learn from experts, so let’s tip a cap to a few that have offered and were called forward on the ride…. 

  • Rich Moore, perhaps the world’s nicest person, calls it “Quality Time Remaining,” and we are trying to pile it on. I like it here! On this earth, with my family, in our communities, with these missions, I am all in. The vast West offers perspective on scale and scope, though…. 
  • My multi-faceted renaissance buddy Doug Gould taught me that the best two words in the English language are “Yes, let’s!” That, and “Play LaBamba!” or “Sweet Beaver.” He’s a happy, joyful man.
  • Willy Braun’s “Desolations Angels” keeps showing up in this blog — clearly my favorite road song EV-er. He, I suppose, relates Saint Theresa’s “Little Way” and her “do the little things of love NOW” ethic to a road song, pledging to “keep the rubber on the road, and the blood inside.” I don’t know all the depths he plumbed, but I hear their echos on the road anyway. That song, and “Pancho and Lefty,”* and “Trains I Missed” (Walt Wilkins), “Holy Days” (Sean McConnell), Micky Braun’s “Long & Lonely Highway” seem to be the songs that the wind is always able to play. I DID eventually get back to Slip, Slidin’ Away on Day 3, see “Day 12: Zig Zaggin’ Away, McCovey Gets His Stripes“, Aug 2021.

*[In a crazy side note, I saw Emmy at about this age sing this song live TWICE, In Kuteztown, PA and in Palo Alto, CA. It’s a top memory.]

Finally, I am far from the only conservative on this particularly lonely road, and I intend mine own label expire completely after for one or two rehab riding days and my short term throttle policy. Perhaps we all should have a broader throttle policy.

There are too many metaphors to make, but I don’t wanna. I’m ok being lonely out here.

Skirting the darkness….

will say that, now in my 8th decade, as I rode into Ely, NV, I had never, ever seen roads and towns fly flags in such unanimity when it was not the 4th of July. I’d ask if it’s fueled with the tolerance and love of Saint Theresa’s way, because so often, I fear, it is not. I’ll just continue to engage, try to make sense of it, and keep the rubber on the road and the blood inside. 

Even when it boils.