The morning offered a cold and cloudy ride. Metaphor? Maybe, but this time, nothing was at stake but a return to the concentration, immersive beauty and solace that a long ride offers. Not having been successful with meditation, McCovey delivers a magical, powerful alternative.
Lynn video’d my departure as I wobbled off. Immediately following the warmth of a heartfelt parting with, expectedly, “I really don’t know why you’re doing this, ya crazy bastard….”
Ah normality…, all was well!
McCovey and I rode conservatively as we’ve not been seriously tested since our first Desert Caballeros horse adventure in Wickenburg almost 3 years ago. And we haven’t been out for more than 3 days since the Dakotas (chronicled here in ‘21.)
On Day 1, we passed our 25,000th mile, at lonely mile marker 99. Or should I say “milestone.”
I was, for once, a conservative in state, as the binary nature of success and failure on a bike in the desert loomed. Throughout the morning, we swooped long twisties at 40, not 55, and lounged on long straights with visibility for miles at a dogged 75, not 90. You’ve heard of “getting your legs under you.?”
Think higher.
We got gas in Fallon and prepared to leave civilization for America’s loneliest road – Highway 50 across Nevada. The clouds were moments in and of themselves.

The last time I was on this road, Lynn and I had visited Ichthyosaur State Park. Today, the clouds were messin’ with me….

All of the glamor that has over-infused south Austin, Texas with ever more Road-AY-Oh Drive, in a karmic parallel universe, may have been sucked from the formerly charming town of Austin, Nevada. The people were insular, friendly, and…, well, haunted. They’re only a couple handful of ghosts short of, well, you know. Not new news for small rural towns, but this one was shocking.

As we got higher it got colder. But I was NOT expecting this:

Eureka, Nevada presented as thriving. Home of an annual fiddlers festival, the brick Opera House and it’s old hotel have been spiffed and shined. The fiddler thing may be worth a visit!
On the ride, I don’t listen to anything but the bike and the wind. And my own internal, rattle-trap processor as I scout the road ahead. But I like to learn from experts, so let’s tip a cap to a few that have offered and were called forward on the ride….
- Rich Moore, perhaps the world’s nicest person, calls it “Quality Time Remaining,” and we are trying to pile it on. I like it here! On this earth, with my family, in our communities, with these missions, I am all in. The vast West offers perspective on scale and scope, though….
- My multi-faceted renaissance buddy Doug Gould taught me that the best two words in the English language are “Yes, let’s!” That, and “Play LaBamba!” or “Sweet Beaver.” He’s a happy, joyful man.
- Willy Braun’s “Desolations Angels” keeps showing up in this blog — clearly my favorite road song EV-er. He, I suppose, relates Saint Theresa’s “Little Way” and her “do the little things of love NOW” ethic to a road song, pledging to “keep the rubber on the road, and the blood inside.” I don’t know all the depths he plumbed, but I hear their echos on the road anyway. That song, and “Pancho and Lefty,”* and “Trains I Missed” (Walt Wilkins), “Holy Days” (Sean McConnell), Micky Braun’s “Long & Lonely Highway” seem to be the songs that the wind is always able to play. I DID eventually get back to Slip, Slidin’ Away on Day 3, see “Day 12: Zig Zaggin’ Away, McCovey Gets His Stripes“, Aug 2021.
*[In a crazy side note, I saw Emmy at about this age sing this song live TWICE, In Kuteztown, PA and in Palo Alto, CA. It’s a top memory.]
Finally, I am far from the only conservative on this particularly lonely road, and I intend mine own label expire completely after for one or two rehab riding days and my short term throttle policy. Perhaps we all should have a broader throttle policy.
There are too many metaphors to make, but I don’t wanna. I’m ok being lonely out here.

I will say that, now in my 8th decade, as I rode into Ely, NV, I had never, ever seen roads and towns fly flags in such unanimity when it was not the 4th of July. I’d ask if it’s fueled with the tolerance and love of Saint Theresa’s way, because so often, I fear, it is not. I’ll just continue to engage, try to make sense of it, and keep the rubber on the road and the blood inside.
Even when it boils.
